Paris made me feel elongated like a movie star in a silent film, stretching, in sepia tones - you see every curve, but not at rest. It may be the lon
g, sexy peak-inside-me windows that allowed me to watch ordinary Parisians go about their business. I could have spent the entire week eating pastries from three floors up, while spying on Paris with a pair of Lemaire opera glasses, and been very happy indeed.
Of course, that would have been silly. Almost as silly as realizing that my answer to the question, “What was the best thing you ate in Paris?” is “mashed potatoes.” If you are ever in Paris, visit Le Christine (I must congratulate my mother, a wonderful traveling companion, for finding this little gem). Hidden down a narrow street in St-Germain-de-Prés, Le Christine is exactly what I imagined of a Paris restaurant. Cozy and off the main drag with wooden beams and windows to view relaxing street scenes - couples with their hands in each other’s back pockets. I ordered wine from the owner’s vineyard in Saint Emilion. Better yet, the chef often broke out in what seemed like French folk songs (of course, it could have been the latest hit from a Parisian pop star but these non-French speaking ears likes the former idea rather than the latter).
After an olive mousse, we decided to go with the cote de boeuf du Limousin pour 2 pers, puree d
e pommes de terre maison, béarnaise – or “meat for two” (we would later rename it “meat for twelve”). We were delighted when our cheerful server cut the steaming, tender roast at our table. It was accompanied by a generous helping of rustic mashed potatoes. I don’t know what made these potatoes so good, but we were both swooning over their simple deliciousness. I finished the evening with three flavors of crème brulee and another glass of wine.
Indeed, we ate well and walked a lot. We walked from Montparnasse to the Louvre, through the Jardin des Tuileries, down the Champs Elysees, up the Arc de Triomphe, back over the Seine, around Invalides, to the Musee d’Orsay, all over the Left Bank, back over the Seine, down the Champs de Mars, to the Eiffel Tower, and through the Luxembourg gardens.
But no
thing compared
to the extreme peace and extreme movement of the Ile de la Cite, the center of the city and a stage for medieval Paris, most visually represented by Notre Dame. It took about 170 years to build this cathedral and standing inside the nave, listening to the faint hum of religious music, made me think about patience – patience and faith. I found myself intrigued by a statue and as I moved towards her I discovered it was a statue of Sainte Therese. I must have looked awkward staring at her. I wasn’t sure what to do with this moment. After a few minutes I lit a candle and prayed. The thing is I have no idea what my prayer contained, as if my own yearnings were being kept a secret, even from me. Patience, I guess. 170 years of it.
The Ile de la Cite has also been home to justice (or injustice) in Paris since medieval times. A few blocks from Notre Dame, the towers of the Palais de Justice line the quays. Home to many French courts, including the “court of last resort,” this area is bustling with sirens and dashing policemen (the sirens reminded me of Inspector Gadget – insert theme here).
It is also home to the Conciergerie. Once a royal palace, the Conciergerie eventually housed thousands of prisoners during the Reign of Terror. T
his is a hodge-podge kind of museum but it showcases wax figures that make a visit here quite, well, creepy. I have always been fascinated by the passion and insanity of the French Revolution (so much so I almost specialized in it). Marie Antoinette was imprisoned here before meeting her fate and they have a wax figure of her, dressed in black, facing away from you. If you think history has a pulse (and I certainly do) then you will feel drama seeping from the cells. Charlotte Corday, Marat’s fascinating murderess, in addition to Danton and Robespierre called this home before being taken to their deaths. You can stand where they believe the gate was, the gate that opened to load the convicted on carts –on their way to the infamous guillotine. According to historian Simon Schama, “even by the standards of the time, the Conciergerie was a wretched whole…many of the prisoners compared it to one of the lower circles of Dante’s Inferno, a house of vermin, smelling of sickness…”
Obviously, these are only highlights. I could go into detail about the kind waiter at L’Epi Dupin, who went over the entire menu with us, or the stop at Laduree for their famous macaroons (something I have dreamed about since a teenager thumbing through Victoria, my favorite magazine), the smallness of the Mona Lisa, my intention to buy a Parisian wedding dress, the loveliness of the Musee d’Orsay, the fabulous hotel breakfasts with fresh-squ
eezed blood-orange juice, etc, etc. And to top it all off, I was with my mother, one of my best friends. Needless to say, it was a wonderful trip.
Travel adds layers of adjectives and interests to your bones as if, while I spied on Parisians behind their long windows, they were spying on me, making up stories about me– French stories –that I tucked away in my suitcase to translate back home, on my terrace, with a glass of wine.